Story continues, this time in Potosi, Bolivia. And in reality already couple of days back... Yep, turtle speed, I think its an impact of Iquitos, about which I still wanted to write some comments... That in the last post a little later.
After our "death road" adventure we jumped on the night bus to Potosi, a mining town. Potosi is known for its 1800th fame - the richest city in the world, thanks to the silver mines, the hill forms part of the coat of arms of Bolivia. They say, that Spain was salvaged from bacrupcy thanks to Potosi mines... And, that the silver that was exported to spain could make a bridge from Potosi to Spain (one way) and the bones of the people that died in those mines would make the return bridge to Bolivia. Could be true, since they say since the mines were opened in 15xx (sorry, forgot the right numbers...) some 8 million people have died there.
Potosi as the city reminds a little about its rich past, but its not well maintained. Maybe if I had more than 1 day there, I would learn to appreciate it, but it was pretty run down place. Nice, but leaves to wish for more restauration to appreciate it better. The 2 main reasons why to visit it is to go to the mines, and the other less important reason - to see the "casa de monedas", the plave where Bolivian money used to be made.
The mines - there are 3 things about them - silver, the devil, and child labour. All 3 valid up to date. I bought a film about the child labour in the mines but have not seen it yet. But we did see children going in to work there.
Well, in "chronological order": the silver. Seems like the mineral is getting less and less, and a proposal has been to clear the hill, and start diggin into the ground to get more. This was protested, since it has also a simbolic value. Apart from silver, they get some 7 other minerals, but zinc and silver are the main ones. What surprised me was the work mode.. Except the hight of the tunels, it seems that nothing has changed since 18-hundreds... Pure manula labour, from pulling teh wagons to winching up the baskets with minerals. What was weird, when we asked the guide why - she said that it requires lots of investment and the miners dont have it. But, its not anymore the miners who own the mines! Even "cooepratives" are not anymore real ones, but the former miners are the owners of the rights to explore certain parts of the mines, and they hire cheap labour to dig. Basically, it seems like on one hand there is certain pessimism about "we cant do it" in a more modern way, but also that there is some "we like it like it is" and almost a wish to show the victim side of it. As we left the mine, we saw 3 wagons being emptied. This was an example where not much "investment" was needed to make the work more efficient: first they emptied the wagons on the ground, then there were 3 other people with showels putting it in the truck! All of that could have been done by rather simple contrcution being made where the wagon could be pushed slightly more over the edge and the contents emtied direclty into the truck... That does not require high ingeneering skills! So, my observation was, that some of it is kept as "toursit" attraction, but at the same time it did seem that the people were really earning living that way.
The other aspect, the child labour. As we walked in the mine, we saw few minors going in to work the shift. I have to see that movie. Should be a good one, and while its not documentary, it is reflecting reality. This is illegal actually in Bolivia (child labour that is), but again the guide was partly right (although I disagree with half of it) that well, instead of sending them to study, somebody has to get bread on the table. Thus, the kids (i think they are at least 10 years old and most are older) do work in the mines.
Finally, the devil. That used to be one invention of the christians (spaniards) who wanted indeginous people to work there, using the Inca principle of shared labour for the community. When people refused to go into mines they invented the "devil" good "tio", a combination of "good" and "pachamama" (mother earth) as protective symbol of the miners. So, "pachamama" traditions still continue - putting some coca leaves, pouring alchohol in 4 directions (inca tradition) as a symbol of protection.
Well, that was "potosi". The money house I will have to leave for later.
My trip is ending today. In an hour am borading the flight to Madrid, but promise to finish the stories about AMAZING BOLIVIA. I loved it, and wish I had spent more time in Bolivia than in Peru.
Wednesday, 2 April 2008
Tuesday, 1 April 2008
The most dangerous road in the world...
Travelling and writing blog updates turns out to be not that easy as thought... So, after some silence need to update you on our travel. Those reading Latvian have already had some facts from my brothers blog, but here is my version on the "death road" or the most dangerous road trip outside La Paz.
Firstly - I did it... Joined the group of 10 guys on mountainbikes to get down the something like 50 km with 8 km uphill. Have to say also, that I did half of it on the bike, the other with the bike on the minivans roof and me in the front seat enjoying the scenery. Yeah... first part of some 20 km or even more on the paved road was GREAT! You just sit on the bike, feel the cold, wind, and with me taking it little easy - I also managed to enjoy the scenery at 4600 M altitude. Great mountains! Snow tops and black cliffs, slowly changing to greener landscape as we were descending. Well, in short, I loved it. Even the uphill part was not that bad. Only in one part with gravel I had to get off the bike, otherwise it was easier to peddal than walk.
Then however the second part started... Gravel, downhill, with so little stability that after a while I decided enough, I dont want to join the group of 7 tourists that have died on that road falling off the 200m-300m steep mountain edges, and got in the minivan following the group. Had my adrenaline experience trying to control the bike for some 10 minutes on that road, and then sat back, enjoyned ever changing scenery and took pictures.
What was amasing - the change from the hardly green to luch clloud forests - nice mountain jungle that looks so inviting. Waterfals on the way, the driver being so kind that he stoppped at many nice places so that I can take pictures, while the guys were racing down...
To be true - some guys after experiencing uncontrolled skidding and 20 cm off the edge, changed their positions from the front to the back of the group. So, it was not that easy after all, but I guess if there was no pressure to go fast (guide have to say was not the best one to encourage steady downhill ride... instead wanted me to get in the car) then I would have joined the group on the bike. Heard that for 15 USD you can rent a bike and go down the hill on your own. That would suit me well.
But the main thing - I have done the "death road" in my own way and managed to enjoy it even. Thus can reccomend the ride to others. Pictures you will have to check out later, as I will upload those later on the web when internet is faster.
From La Paz and the bike ride Karlis and I headed to Potosi, the big silver mine city. That however you will have to wait a little to hear about. Meanwhile enjoy latest updates on the Boliva photos.
Firstly - I did it... Joined the group of 10 guys on mountainbikes to get down the something like 50 km with 8 km uphill. Have to say also, that I did half of it on the bike, the other with the bike on the minivans roof and me in the front seat enjoying the scenery. Yeah... first part of some 20 km or even more on the paved road was GREAT! You just sit on the bike, feel the cold, wind, and with me taking it little easy - I also managed to enjoy the scenery at 4600 M altitude. Great mountains! Snow tops and black cliffs, slowly changing to greener landscape as we were descending. Well, in short, I loved it. Even the uphill part was not that bad. Only in one part with gravel I had to get off the bike, otherwise it was easier to peddal than walk.
Then however the second part started... Gravel, downhill, with so little stability that after a while I decided enough, I dont want to join the group of 7 tourists that have died on that road falling off the 200m-300m steep mountain edges, and got in the minivan following the group. Had my adrenaline experience trying to control the bike for some 10 minutes on that road, and then sat back, enjoyned ever changing scenery and took pictures.
What was amasing - the change from the hardly green to luch clloud forests - nice mountain jungle that looks so inviting. Waterfals on the way, the driver being so kind that he stoppped at many nice places so that I can take pictures, while the guys were racing down...
To be true - some guys after experiencing uncontrolled skidding and 20 cm off the edge, changed their positions from the front to the back of the group. So, it was not that easy after all, but I guess if there was no pressure to go fast (guide have to say was not the best one to encourage steady downhill ride... instead wanted me to get in the car) then I would have joined the group on the bike. Heard that for 15 USD you can rent a bike and go down the hill on your own. That would suit me well.
But the main thing - I have done the "death road" in my own way and managed to enjoy it even. Thus can reccomend the ride to others. Pictures you will have to check out later, as I will upload those later on the web when internet is faster.
From La Paz and the bike ride Karlis and I headed to Potosi, the big silver mine city. That however you will have to wait a little to hear about. Meanwhile enjoy latest updates on the Boliva photos.
Wednesday, 26 March 2008
Welcome to La Paz: the city of the fit
La Paz - the weird city...
As I wrote yesterday, we have been in La Paz 1 day, now its the second. It is a weird city, and to get to know it better we took a city tour today on a double decker tourist bus. Reccomend it! Even if the information is not that extensive, it does give enough to understand what the city is about.
It is a mixture of old restored, old ruined, old possibly to be restored, semi-new 70th adn 80th horror buldings, new nice, new even more "horror" buildings. Basically, there is NO STYLE to it, but if you take it piece by piece, you can appreciate each of it individually, and likewise do not appreciate some of the horror architecture examples. And, I still like the people! They may ignore you, but its better than last 3 weeks.
What is interesting here as well - the rich part is the South. Normally, the North part of the city is the rich one, but here the contrary. Explication is rather simple - the difference in temperature between El Alto (around 4000 m) and El Sur and its affluent negbourhoods (at 3000 m) is 10 degrees celsius +! Thus, if in the North and altiplano it is 20 degrees, in the South of the city its 30. A good enough reason for the rich to breake the rules.
Since La Paz is situated between two mountain chains, the main street is the lowest part that runs in the valley. This consequently means that whenever you want to go to the right or left side from the main street, you have to climb up.... At 3000 somthing m altitude one needs strong lungs and has to be fit to do it well here. We are trying. Fortunately, the 3000 something is not that high yet to feel bad, but I can´t say I am running up and down the streets. Its more like slow controlled walking where pilates breathing comes handy. They say that by the time I get to Madrid I will have more red blood cells in my body nad the lungs will be taking in more oxygen, but considering that the air is not that good in Madrid, I will also be taking in lots of pollution.. Cant have the good without the bad. I wonder though how it will be going back to the jum - will be running like a sprinter! With all of those red blood cells carrying around oxygen should help the physical form.
The city is overlooked by the ever while Illiani vulcano. Should be some 6500m if not even slightly higher. Yesterday it was covered in clouds, but today we had a nice view to it. You can try and see it in the background of the picture. Have to say it looked more ipressive "live", but..
La Paz also has the highest commercial airport at 4060 m! That I will try on April 2 when going to Lima to catch my flight to Madrid. And i think I will try to get a window seat for this flight.
My scientific brother also told that the weight here should be different. Have not tried yet, but seems like travelling has made me loose some, to the degree that I am worried that I have to start eating double the food as normal! But, I also guess that once I am back at 700m it will all settle to normal. Anyone for weight loss programmes? - go to the high altitudes and eat chicken and rice for a week - thereafter you will long for salads, fruit juices and every time you pass the "polleria" with strong smell of french fries and grilled chicken you will say "no, thank you".
What else, La Paz has more electric wires than I have seen in my life! Well, again the reason is 
simple, they have not put all electircity lines in the ground, but they go over and between the houses. Our double decker tourist bus run into them twice during the 3-4 hour trip. When you check the pictures and see some black lines crossing thse - there is nothing wrong with the camera - those are the electricity and all other imaginable cables. When you see that, then the warning by the bus driver and the guide - "do not raise your arms or stand up" makes perfect sense! When we did rise to take some photos, a careful review of the situation was done before - "wires or no wires"....
simple, they have not put all electircity lines in the ground, but they go over and between the houses. Our double decker tourist bus run into them twice during the 3-4 hour trip. When you check the pictures and see some black lines crossing thse - there is nothing wrong with the camera - those are the electricity and all other imaginable cables. When you see that, then the warning by the bus driver and the guide - "do not raise your arms or stand up" makes perfect sense! When we did rise to take some photos, a careful review of the situation was done before - "wires or no wires".... Part of our tour took us to the Valley of the Moon. Why that name - it looks like you are on a different planet! Supposedly it is the bottom of the sea - that is when lake Titicaca was connected to the sea and after a move of the platos of the Earth, the water was divided, making the Andes and the valley, and the sand stones is now visible. Yep, my scepticism acquired in Peru tells me to double check everything before believing it, but I will leave it to each of you.
The view however is nice. Its weirs also to see that the Moon Valley is of a yellow-grayish sand stone, while neigbouring hills are of a red sand stone. An impressive contrast. What we missed out in the trip was a cactus garden. Saw it only from the bus, but supposedly there they grow all imaginable variety of cactuses. If you have a chance, take time to see that as well. We are now back to the city and will head ou for "shopping". As dutiful toursits we have to take some of Bolivian articrafts home. What we got, you will have to come and see when I get home. Until later...
Tuesday, 25 March 2008
Drunks are the same everywhere
Hello again - to all of those who are following our trip and the experiences, and to those joining now. We are in Bolivia at the moment, but I wont close the Peru part YET. Some things remain to be said and pictures uploaded.
However, 2 days in Bolivia and the first impressions are: "I like it so far". And, after 3 weeks or so of too much "do not trust anybody" and constant harassment by tour agents and souvenier sellers, I feel relaxed!!!!!
We started off by a slow move from Cusco. The last "lie" on Peruvian side had to be expected - the bus compnay reps selling us tickets showed us pictures of the bus that were NOT AT ALL representative. That it the bus was one of the worst in which we have travelled so far. If you travel from Cusco to Puno, do not take San Luis.... They also said it left "on time" and that of course was not true, and the indicated 6 hours of the trip as well took longer, so by the time we got to Puno to take a minivan to the border city with Bolivia we were risking running late. The last bus neither went on time, or managed to ride the distance in the 3 hours they said, so we arrived to our last Peru town shortly before closure of the Bolivian border.
One thing that was our fault -we did not check that there is 1 hour time difference between Bolivia and Peru, but forutnately with other 10 or so foreigners at the Peru checkpoint 2-3 minutes before Bolivian side closed, I think they most probably communicated that we are about to cross over so that the others wait for us. Well, to finish the Peru travel on a positive note, I choose to believe it :)
Arriving to Bolivia was a pleasant surprise. Road was well paved! The minivan we took to Copacabana at the Titicaca lake was new, the driver extremely responsible, opening the doors for passengers to get it and out, and we found a nice hostel with a view to Titicaca lake.
A less positive surprise awaited us however - there we NO ATMs to cash some money in Copacabana. So, if you go there - take USD or EURO in CAHS. Peru Soles, Argentinian and Chilean money is also accepted in exchange offices. With our 40 USD cash (20 per person) we had to cut our planned 2 nights stay in Copacabana to 1, and leave to La Paz the following day. It was a relaxing town and I would have liked to stay there one more night, but should have taken the money out in Peru...
Copacabana ir worth visiting. It has extremely huge potential for development, but as for now its rather rustic. Lakeside has very basic facilities, but it is nice. There are tours to the Islands of the Sun and the Moon, where the Inca culture was born, and you can stay on the Isle of the Sun. We wanted to, but short in cash had to leave. Maybe it had the extra positive impression on me because it was relaxed - no harrasment by hostel, shop and restaurant owners! After Peru it was great. Just to walk, to see the people and enjoy the calmness about everything there. And if you are there - take the steep walk to the mirador. It opens for really nice views, and you can get down on the alternative route: not taking the steps...
We also had breakfast in the market, trying chicha morada, some doughnut type sweet things, and tea, and during the lunch waiting for the boat to the Island of the Sun watched at the nearby restaurant/bar 3 local musicians (drunk already by then) sing. Therefore the heading - drunk people sing as bad everywhere :) It was funny. Later that night, on our way to La Paz, we had to cross a lake pass on a boat and waiting for the bus to be taken over on bigger platforms (takes slower) had opportunity to observe the dancing and singing at the main square of that town (cant tell you the name now...). There as well, people had been celebrating most probably the whole day long and by 9 pm and many beers later imagine how some of them looked. Not that different to a drunk Latvian, British or Spanish guy, whos wife is trying to get him home. It was funny, but I could also see that people were really enjoying the time.
Late at night we arrived to La Paz, and as my guide book (Spanish) says, the taxi drivers are reliable - we were fortuante to be taken to the hostel by one of those reliable guys. So, our La Paz adventure starts now, and more news will follow.
However, 2 days in Bolivia and the first impressions are: "I like it so far". And, after 3 weeks or so of too much "do not trust anybody" and constant harassment by tour agents and souvenier sellers, I feel relaxed!!!!!
We started off by a slow move from Cusco. The last "lie" on Peruvian side had to be expected - the bus compnay reps selling us tickets showed us pictures of the bus that were NOT AT ALL representative. That it the bus was one of the worst in which we have travelled so far. If you travel from Cusco to Puno, do not take San Luis.... They also said it left "on time" and that of course was not true, and the indicated 6 hours of the trip as well took longer, so by the time we got to Puno to take a minivan to the border city with Bolivia we were risking running late. The last bus neither went on time, or managed to ride the distance in the 3 hours they said, so we arrived to our last Peru town shortly before closure of the Bolivian border.
One thing that was our fault -we did not check that there is 1 hour time difference between Bolivia and Peru, but forutnately with other 10 or so foreigners at the Peru checkpoint 2-3 minutes before Bolivian side closed, I think they most probably communicated that we are about to cross over so that the others wait for us. Well, to finish the Peru travel on a positive note, I choose to believe it :)
Arriving to Bolivia was a pleasant surprise. Road was well paved! The minivan we took to Copacabana at the Titicaca lake was new, the driver extremely responsible, opening the doors for passengers to get it and out, and we found a nice hostel with a view to Titicaca lake.
A less positive surprise awaited us however - there we NO ATMs to cash some money in Copacabana. So, if you go there - take USD or EURO in CAHS. Peru Soles, Argentinian and Chilean money is also accepted in exchange offices. With our 40 USD cash (20 per person) we had to cut our planned 2 nights stay in Copacabana to 1, and leave to La Paz the following day. It was a relaxing town and I would have liked to stay there one more night, but should have taken the money out in Peru...
Copacabana ir worth visiting. It has extremely huge potential for development, but as for now its rather rustic. Lakeside has very basic facilities, but it is nice. There are tours to the Islands of the Sun and the Moon, where the Inca culture was born, and you can stay on the Isle of the Sun. We wanted to, but short in cash had to leave. Maybe it had the extra positive impression on me because it was relaxed - no harrasment by hostel, shop and restaurant owners! After Peru it was great. Just to walk, to see the people and enjoy the calmness about everything there. And if you are there - take the steep walk to the mirador. It opens for really nice views, and you can get down on the alternative route: not taking the steps...
We also had breakfast in the market, trying chicha morada, some doughnut type sweet things, and tea, and during the lunch waiting for the boat to the Island of the Sun watched at the nearby restaurant/bar 3 local musicians (drunk already by then) sing. Therefore the heading - drunk people sing as bad everywhere :) It was funny. Later that night, on our way to La Paz, we had to cross a lake pass on a boat and waiting for the bus to be taken over on bigger platforms (takes slower) had opportunity to observe the dancing and singing at the main square of that town (cant tell you the name now...). There as well, people had been celebrating most probably the whole day long and by 9 pm and many beers later imagine how some of them looked. Not that different to a drunk Latvian, British or Spanish guy, whos wife is trying to get him home. It was funny, but I could also see that people were really enjoying the time.
Late at night we arrived to La Paz, and as my guide book (Spanish) says, the taxi drivers are reliable - we were fortuante to be taken to the hostel by one of those reliable guys. So, our La Paz adventure starts now, and more news will follow.
Friday, 21 March 2008
More on Machu Picchu - alternative food places and nice people
did not finish yesterday... patience was exhausted, and in addition the internet was disconnecting regularly, so here we continue - from Cusco. Even the pictures are up (see the link).
Since writing the "privatisation" thing yesterday, some more things happened-
we got cheated again... No, it does not mean that we are stupid and fall for such idiots, but we just could not get the change. Went to play pool, had a drink, and when paying, they had calculated 10% service chasrge from 15 Soles as 2 Soles. It must be the bad school teachers... When reminding the woman to return 50 centavos that she forgot to give as a change, she played dumb... Well, on the positive note - she may have problems with mathematics, so we had to forgive her. With 95% of teachers failing reexamination, what else can you expect from the people.
BUT - of course there are really nice people as well. After being charged the service fee wrong, we of course did not continue eating there, and went to a local fast food stand. If you are in Aguas Calientes, please do cross the bridge (the last one up hill) to the "people´s" side of the town - that is where normal people live and which is not deidcated to tourists. Just crossing that last bridge teh water prices for 2 l bottle drop dramatically - from 5 Soles to 3.50, and there on the corner is this shop where you can get you normal food, and just after that a small "hot dog stand". There you can get very nice burgers, as for the other things I dont know. The woman running the stand also told us that the "service fee" that restaurants charge is going for salaries of people in the kitchen. That is, they dont get ANY salary if tourists do not pay "service fee". After she had worked in a restaurant for 1 days, she decided to quit and open her own food stand. So, this is and AD for her fast food stand!
In general, the town was nice, except yesterday evening we were getting bored. After all day walking in Machu Picchu, we were tired, but not enough to sleep, so with our new friend Camile (from Columbia) we had icecream on the main square, went to play pool, did not go to the hot springs as we would have to buy more staff (or rent - towels, flip-flops) and finally we had a nice time at the fast food stand. I long however for some nice salads! After the easy going evening we went to sleep. Sounds boring...
But, more "crazy" stuff about all the trip to Macu Picchu. "Peru Rail" is an interesting concept. It has been privatised as I read in 1999. While they say its a Chilean compnay, in reality they are British. our theory (not double checked!) is that the british company (will try to check who...) is using a "fake" subsidiary in Chile to pay bribes. And this way trying to maintain clean hands. Cant say they suceed, but at least they suceed in 1 thing - many peruvians are not happy with chileans, since they think its thier idea to rip of tourists who leave Aguas Calientes not that happy. In the picture you can see that I am happy and grateful to Peru Rail for reminding me of going back home. The experience will for sure stay in my memory... This morning taking the train we just had to conclude that they do everything to make tourists feel like at home - except, that this must be the MOST EXPENSIVE railway in the world if you count USD/hour. Also, at the train station I wanted to take camomille tea: turned out to cost 1 EURO (4 Soles)! The day before in the fast food price the "peruvian price" was 1 Sole... Have to say they really succeed in prearing me for coming back to Madrid, and even then I may think that Madrid is cheap! At least the AVE fast train wont seem expensive anymore. Well done!
However we also discovered talking to the fast food standlady, the taxi drivers, the bus drivers, hostel runners (we stayed in a very cheap one... and a very humid one - I would choose a different place next time) that there is enormous citizens activity nad organisation from Cusco to stop all the crazy things government (wonder how much and who is paying them?) plans: they already had 24 hour strike, and as we found out another 72 hours still remain to be used. I am with all 4 for this! No to Peru Rail illegal monopoly, no to building 5and 4 start hotels almost on the Machu Picchu site, but also no to raising entrance fee to the site to 100 USD. The 40 USD we paid I think were more than enough, but if they use the proifit to ensure good maintenance and support to new archeological sites - I am ok with 40.
Will be interesting to follow what wil happen....
Since writing the "privatisation" thing yesterday, some more things happened-
we got cheated again... No, it does not mean that we are stupid and fall for such idiots, but we just could not get the change. Went to play pool, had a drink, and when paying, they had calculated 10% service chasrge from 15 Soles as 2 Soles. It must be the bad school teachers... When reminding the woman to return 50 centavos that she forgot to give as a change, she played dumb... Well, on the positive note - she may have problems with mathematics, so we had to forgive her. With 95% of teachers failing reexamination, what else can you expect from the people.
BUT - of course there are really nice people as well. After being charged the service fee wrong, we of course did not continue eating there, and went to a local fast food stand. If you are in Aguas Calientes, please do cross the bridge (the last one up hill) to the "people´s" side of the town - that is where normal people live and which is not deidcated to tourists. Just crossing that last bridge teh water prices for 2 l bottle drop dramatically - from 5 Soles to 3.50, and there on the corner is this shop where you can get you normal food, and just after that a small "hot dog stand". There you can get very nice burgers, as for the other things I dont know. The woman running the stand also told us that the "service fee" that restaurants charge is going for salaries of people in the kitchen. That is, they dont get ANY salary if tourists do not pay "service fee". After she had worked in a restaurant for 1 days, she decided to quit and open her own food stand. So, this is and AD for her fast food stand!
In general, the town was nice, except yesterday evening we were getting bored. After all day walking in Machu Picchu, we were tired, but not enough to sleep, so with our new friend Camile (from Columbia) we had icecream on the main square, went to play pool, did not go to the hot springs as we would have to buy more staff (or rent - towels, flip-flops) and finally we had a nice time at the fast food stand. I long however for some nice salads! After the easy going evening we went to sleep. Sounds boring...
But, more "crazy" stuff about all the trip to Macu Picchu. "Peru Rail" is an interesting concept. It has been privatised as I read in 1999. While they say its a Chilean compnay, in reality they are British. our theory (not double checked!) is that the british company (will try to check who...) is using a "fake" subsidiary in Chile to pay bribes. And this way trying to maintain clean hands. Cant say they suceed, but at least they suceed in 1 thing - many peruvians are not happy with chileans, since they think its thier idea to rip of tourists who leave Aguas Calientes not that happy. In the picture you can see that I am happy and grateful to Peru Rail for reminding me of going back home. The experience will for sure stay in my memory... This morning taking the train we just had to conclude that they do everything to make tourists feel like at home - except, that this must be the MOST EXPENSIVE railway in the world if you count USD/hour. Also, at the train station I wanted to take camomille tea: turned out to cost 1 EURO (4 Soles)! The day before in the fast food price the "peruvian price" was 1 Sole... Have to say they really succeed in prearing me for coming back to Madrid, and even then I may think that Madrid is cheap! At least the AVE fast train wont seem expensive anymore. Well done!However we also discovered talking to the fast food standlady, the taxi drivers, the bus drivers, hostel runners (we stayed in a very cheap one... and a very humid one - I would choose a different place next time) that there is enormous citizens activity nad organisation from Cusco to stop all the crazy things government (wonder how much and who is paying them?) plans: they already had 24 hour strike, and as we found out another 72 hours still remain to be used. I am with all 4 for this! No to Peru Rail illegal monopoly, no to building 5and 4 start hotels almost on the Machu Picchu site, but also no to raising entrance fee to the site to 100 USD. The 40 USD we paid I think were more than enough, but if they use the proifit to ensure good maintenance and support to new archeological sites - I am ok with 40.
Will be interesting to follow what wil happen....
Thursday, 20 March 2008
Machu Picchu privatisation
So we are back in Aguas Calientes after visiting the wonder of the world Machu Picchu. Before going into details of privatisation, have to say that the views from there were really nice, but at the same time if the city was somewhere in the valley, it would never make that impression. it also seems that much of it is restored, that is put together anew in the places where they have found piles of rocks, but when looking from the top sites it at gave impression of a complete city. In short it was nice, but the key was the views from the various places and in conjunction with the surrounding mountains.
To see the site, you better go up there with the first bus at 5:30: as we did. Now seeing how many people were there after 9, 6am was the only time when it was relaxed and nice. 
Afterwards you would not see the empty stairs and would always have to walk around big groups of people. And, that was good exercise. If you check the picture, you can see the black spot on the top of the stairs - its a person... So, it was high climbing - and until I left around 12:30 it was all the time up and down. With all my scepticism - have to say it was interesting, and there in early morning hours gave fantastic views, and if wanted - you could catch a spot and sit alone meditating about life.
Afterwards you would not see the empty stairs and would always have to walk around big groups of people. And, that was good exercise. If you check the picture, you can see the black spot on the top of the stairs - its a person... So, it was high climbing - and until I left around 12:30 it was all the time up and down. With all my scepticism - have to say it was interesting, and there in early morning hours gave fantastic views, and if wanted - you could catch a spot and sit alone meditating about life. I was lazy however to climb up Whyna Picchu (they mountain that you can see in the first picture above). Karlis however did it, and this is how Machu Picchu looks like from there!
Nice, almost regret that I did not go up there, but having enough excitement with some narrow paths to the Inca Bridge, guess I was better off staying with my feet on the ground than loosing balance and falling off the cliff.
Nice, almost regret that I did not go up there, but having enough excitement with some narrow paths to the Inca Bridge, guess I was better off staying with my feet on the ground than loosing balance and falling off the cliff.Well, take your time to see the pictures. They have not been named or ordered, for some you will have to turn your head to see it right, but once we have more time- will try to do the homework.
We heard also something interesting related to the mentality of the Peru government. As indicated in the title, last year the government had passed a decree about opening Machu Picchu for PRIVATISATION. Maybe for har core capitalists this would sound great, but a great heritage of humanity being privatised sounds weird for a European. This however seems to stem well with the mentality of some people in some places we have seen. "What is in my territory is mine". Does not matter whether it has a cultural value for the whole country and historical importance, but if I dig it out I can sell it, keep it in my own private collection, melt it say if its gold and make new teeth, well, anything goes! Fortunately, people in Cusco seem to be different, they went on strikes and manifestations to stop that crazy governmetn idea. And so far they have suceeded.
...More later.
Wednesday, 19 March 2008
Near Machu Pichu - alternative access by road
Just a reminder that we are still travelling, and are nearing Machu Pichu. Expectations are set very high, like the prices on the way, so we will see how what we will see tomorrow will meet the expectations. About that later, but this is just to tell you that we are taking the 5.30 AM bus to the entrance to the site, hoping for sunrise and no rain.
Getting as far as to Aguas Calientes (named so because of the hot spring here) which they try to rename to Machu Pichu town, was an adventure itself. It took us 1 full day with another "normal travel time times 2" experience.
Well, firstly, my Karlis and Roberts did not know when they will reach Peru, neither I had planned to join them last year, so booking a hike through Inca trail was not on our minds. Thus, when we decided to get to Cusco, nearest city, and see Machu Pichu, it was too late to book the hike. They say 2-4 months in advance are required.
Another surprise when we finally got to Cusco - the train tickets were priced like those in Norway or Denmark... With a comment of course - for "forigners". Locals can travel for much less, but even for them its too expensive expect as we understood one train named "local". They say that as of June another company will be offering more connections Cuzco - Aguas Calientes and thus maybe the prices will be brought down, but now with 3-4 trains a day, and monopoly on the route the Chielan company that privatised it has been ripping off tourists. Guess a very good business strategy if they plan to sell it when monopoly situation is ended. But, it just contributes further to the image that was slowly built up while we travelled down the coast - as a tourist you pay up to 10 times more than normal price. As one bus driver told us, wanting to charge 50% more on the ticket - "You have dollars - so pay more!". This attitude seems to continue its life sucessfully in some parts in Cusco as well.
So, to avoid supporting the monopoly on the train (at least one way, as we are returning by train), we decided to do the alternative route. Interesting, that practically nobody in Cusco wanted to talk about it! But if you want some nice mountain views, travel with locals on thier buses and minibuses, there is an excellent route:
1. Cusco - Santa Maria by bus, that will cost you 16 Soles (we paid more, as went to Urubamaba first...). Some 6-61/2 hours bus ride.
21. from Santa Maria to Santa Teresa another 2 hours in a minivan 10 Soles, or taxi (5 persons) 15 soles. We went on the last one, as they could not get the minivan full. Driver was great, and careful.
3. Finally, from Santa Teresa you have the option to walk all the way to Hidro (hidroelectro station) and then to Aguas Calientes another 2 hours on the railway that is practcally not used, or take a combi (minivan) or taxi to Hidro and then do the walk. Here we again encountered "peru time" concept. Everybody said you have 2 hours walk to hidro then 1 hour on the railway. We took taxi to hido and it takes 30 minutes, so it was hard to believe that the walk is only 2 hours...., and we can confirm that from hidro to Aguas Calientes it is almost 2 hours if you walk rather fast, and dont take too much time taking pictures. So, instead of 1 hour we were met with 1 hour 50 or so walk to the hostel.
While it does take longer, we had fun. The fun part maybe guys will disagree with especially when my "bus carma" and regular waiting at roadblocs did work this time, and our last taxi leg to Santa Teresa was 5 hours instead of 2, but I bet they had fun when we were coming down from the pass over the 4000 m (and I think at one point even higher) and could see my scared face when we were deriving when pavement ended... Anyway, we reached the end destination without problems and have to admit the driver was very careful. Bet he should have been - because the bus was not near new and one had to be impressed by the maneuvering skills of the driver especially on the land road and the curves.
Views however compensated the scary part. And at night, when we were waiting for the tractor to clear the way for the cars on our last leg, the moon came out, and the weather cleared a bit, and the light play, the jungle (or as Karlis says - could forests) looked fantastic. The roadbloc was also the place where we got chatting with locals waiting to pass, and they told that the tractor had to come and do the clearing work at night (we were there at 10pm) because during the day the owner of the land (banana and coffee plants) on both sides of the road was sitting there and not letting anyone clear the road as it would damage some of her plantations. When they wanted to try - she would throw stones at the tractor, so they gave up, but did it when the woman went to sleep. Wonder how her face looked like this morning...
Well, after sleep in Santa Teresa, the walk on the railway, we got to Aguas Calientes. Do not trust the Lonely Planet description - the ugliest town in Peru... This is one of the liveliest and colourful towns we have seen (not counting the bigger cities like Cusco and Trujillo). Its not even that overpriced, if you manage to get accomodation for 15 Soles (some 7 USD) a night. So, if you decide to travel here - now you know the alternative route, that makes it cheaper, but longer.
With this note I will end, as we have to get up early and that would not be my normal wake-up time... 5.30 bus sounds a bit too much for holidays! But, hope it will be worth it.
Getting as far as to Aguas Calientes (named so because of the hot spring here) which they try to rename to Machu Pichu town, was an adventure itself. It took us 1 full day with another "normal travel time times 2" experience.
Well, firstly, my Karlis and Roberts did not know when they will reach Peru, neither I had planned to join them last year, so booking a hike through Inca trail was not on our minds. Thus, when we decided to get to Cusco, nearest city, and see Machu Pichu, it was too late to book the hike. They say 2-4 months in advance are required.
Another surprise when we finally got to Cusco - the train tickets were priced like those in Norway or Denmark... With a comment of course - for "forigners". Locals can travel for much less, but even for them its too expensive expect as we understood one train named "local". They say that as of June another company will be offering more connections Cuzco - Aguas Calientes and thus maybe the prices will be brought down, but now with 3-4 trains a day, and monopoly on the route the Chielan company that privatised it has been ripping off tourists. Guess a very good business strategy if they plan to sell it when monopoly situation is ended. But, it just contributes further to the image that was slowly built up while we travelled down the coast - as a tourist you pay up to 10 times more than normal price. As one bus driver told us, wanting to charge 50% more on the ticket - "You have dollars - so pay more!". This attitude seems to continue its life sucessfully in some parts in Cusco as well.
So, to avoid supporting the monopoly on the train (at least one way, as we are returning by train), we decided to do the alternative route. Interesting, that practically nobody in Cusco wanted to talk about it! But if you want some nice mountain views, travel with locals on thier buses and minibuses, there is an excellent route:
1. Cusco - Santa Maria by bus, that will cost you 16 Soles (we paid more, as went to Urubamaba first...). Some 6-61/2 hours bus ride.
21. from Santa Maria to Santa Teresa another 2 hours in a minivan 10 Soles, or taxi (5 persons) 15 soles. We went on the last one, as they could not get the minivan full. Driver was great, and careful.
3. Finally, from Santa Teresa you have the option to walk all the way to Hidro (hidroelectro station) and then to Aguas Calientes another 2 hours on the railway that is practcally not used, or take a combi (minivan) or taxi to Hidro and then do the walk. Here we again encountered "peru time" concept. Everybody said you have 2 hours walk to hidro then 1 hour on the railway. We took taxi to hido and it takes 30 minutes, so it was hard to believe that the walk is only 2 hours...., and we can confirm that from hidro to Aguas Calientes it is almost 2 hours if you walk rather fast, and dont take too much time taking pictures. So, instead of 1 hour we were met with 1 hour 50 or so walk to the hostel.
While it does take longer, we had fun. The fun part maybe guys will disagree with especially when my "bus carma" and regular waiting at roadblocs did work this time, and our last taxi leg to Santa Teresa was 5 hours instead of 2, but I bet they had fun when we were coming down from the pass over the 4000 m (and I think at one point even higher) and could see my scared face when we were deriving when pavement ended... Anyway, we reached the end destination without problems and have to admit the driver was very careful. Bet he should have been - because the bus was not near new and one had to be impressed by the maneuvering skills of the driver especially on the land road and the curves.
Views however compensated the scary part. And at night, when we were waiting for the tractor to clear the way for the cars on our last leg, the moon came out, and the weather cleared a bit, and the light play, the jungle (or as Karlis says - could forests) looked fantastic. The roadbloc was also the place where we got chatting with locals waiting to pass, and they told that the tractor had to come and do the clearing work at night (we were there at 10pm) because during the day the owner of the land (banana and coffee plants) on both sides of the road was sitting there and not letting anyone clear the road as it would damage some of her plantations. When they wanted to try - she would throw stones at the tractor, so they gave up, but did it when the woman went to sleep. Wonder how her face looked like this morning...
Well, after sleep in Santa Teresa, the walk on the railway, we got to Aguas Calientes. Do not trust the Lonely Planet description - the ugliest town in Peru... This is one of the liveliest and colourful towns we have seen (not counting the bigger cities like Cusco and Trujillo). Its not even that overpriced, if you manage to get accomodation for 15 Soles (some 7 USD) a night. So, if you decide to travel here - now you know the alternative route, that makes it cheaper, but longer.
With this note I will end, as we have to get up early and that would not be my normal wake-up time... 5.30 bus sounds a bit too much for holidays! But, hope it will be worth it.
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